by Ian Skellern
The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has just published the list of shortlisted (“nominated”) watches in the runup to the eagerly anticipated red-carpet event in Geneva on November 4, 2021.
The 14 categories for 2021 are: Ladies, Ladies Complication, Men’s, Men’s Complication, Iconic, Tourbillon, Chronograph, Mechanical Exception, Calendar and Astronomy, Diver’s, Jewellery, Artistic Crafts, Petite Aiguille (watches with retail prices between 4,000 and 10,000 Swiss francs), and Challenge (watches with retail prices under 4,000 Swiss francs).
The main prize of the evening is the Aiguille d’Or, the best watch overall among all the entrants, which will be voted in the room by a smaller jury chosen from the now nearly 500 Academy members.
Enough preamble, let’s have a look at the watches that are in serious contention for the prizes as of today.
GPHG 2021: Ladies
Nominated Ladies’ watches in the 2021 GPHG
The Ladies category contains “women’s watches” comprising only the following indications: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases and are potentially adorned with a maximum nine carats’ worth of gems.
The shortlisted watches are: Armin Strom Lady Beat Manufacture Edition White, Bovet 1822 Miss Audrey Sweet Art, Chanel Mademoiselle J12 Acte II, Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Sélène Rose Gold White Mop 33 mm, Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Rainbow, and the Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra secret pendant watch.
Further reading:
- Bovet Fleurier Miss Audrey Sweet Art: Real Sugar Crystals On The Dial Glisten Like Tiny Colorful Pearls (No Licking!)
- Bovet Amadéo Fleurier 36 Miss Audrey: The World’s Most Versatile Ladies’ Watch, And One Of The Prettiest
- Armin Strom Lady Beat: Elegance, Femininity, And Technicity
GPHG 2021: Ladies Complication
Nominated Ladies’ Complication watches in the 2021 GPHG
Ladies Complication constitutes “women’s watches” that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g., annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases, tourbillon, digital or retrograde time display, world time, dual time, and others) and do not fit the definition of the Ladies’ category.
The shortlisted watches are: Bovet 1822 Récital 23, Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Ladies, Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Vivienne, Montres KF KF-09-01, Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon, and the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie.
Further reading:
- Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin: Technically Superb, Ethically Crafted, And Simply Gorgeous
- 60 Years Of Piaget Altiplano: Sophisticated Style Versus Fugitive Fashion
- 3 New Tourbillons From Watches & Wonders 2020: A Pursuit Of Personal Passion
- Bovet Récital 23: It’s All Coming Together
GPHG 2021: Men’s
Nominated Men’s watches in the 2021 GPHG
“Men’s watches” comprise the following indications: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases and are potentially adorned with a maximum five carats’ worth of gems.
The shortlisted watches are: Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Caliber 9SA5, H. Moser & Cie Swiss Alp Watch Final Upgrade, Hermès H08, Louis Erard La Semaine Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein, MB&F LM101 Stainless Steel, and the Piaget Polo Skeleton.
Further reading:
- New Hermès HO8: A Square Take On The Casual Sporty Watch
- LM101 By MB&F: Distilling The Very Essence Of Time
- Why I Bought It: MB&F Legacy Machine 101 2021 Edition
- Serious Fun: H. Moser & Cie. Swiss Alp Final Upgrade
GPHG 2021: Men’s Complication
Nominated Men’s Complication watches in the 2021 GPHG
This category comprises “Men’s Complication watches” that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g., world time, dual time, and others) and do not fit the definition of the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories.
The shortlisted watches are: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42, Bulgari Octo Roma Worldtimer, Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Edition, Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25, and the MB&F LMX Titanium.
Further reading:
- MB&F Legacy Machines: 10th Anniversary Retrospective And LMX
- Chanel Monsieur de Chanel Edition Noire: A Great Watch Becomes Even Greater
- 3 New Breitling Vintage-Style Watches, Including A Gorgeous Split-Seconds Chronograph, For The Premier Collection
GPHG 2021: Iconic
Nominated Iconic watches in the 2021 GPHG
The Iconic category is for watches from an emblematic collection that has exercised a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 20 years.
The shortlisted watches are: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin, Grand Seiko Re-creation of the first Grand Seiko, IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch 43, Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925, Vacheron Constantin American 1921, and the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A386 Manufacture.
Further reading:
- Grand Seiko: Already Big In Japan And Getting Bigger Near You
- Grand Seiko 1960 Re-Creations: Celebrating A Turning Point
- Vacheron Constantin’s New Historiques American 1921 Small: Transforming The Traditional Into The Modern
- Watches And Wonders 2021 (Formerly SIHH) Round Table: What We Liked And What We Didn’t
- Zenith El Primero A384 Revival: Cool Never Changes
GPHG 2021: Tourbillon
Nominated Tourbillon watches in the 2021 GPHG
In the Tourbillon category we find men’s mechanical watches comprising at least one tourbillon. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
The shortlisted watches are: ArtyA Purity Tourbillon, Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph, De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon, Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges – Aston Martin Edition, IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “IWC Racing”, Louis Moinet Space Revolution.
Further reading:
- 5 Of The Best De Bethune Models In The Last 12 Months Plus Bonus Video Of The De Bethune x Voutilainen Kind Of Magic For Only Watch 2021
- De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Two Dials Means Double The Pleasure
- De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon: Double-Faced Split Personality With Floating Lugs (Video)
- IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “IWC Racing”: Haute Horlogerie Constraints
- Louis Moinet Space Revolution: An Epic Space Battle On The Wrist (With Video)
GPHG 2021: Calendar and Astronomy
Nominated Calendar and Astronomy watches in the 2021 GPHG
The Calendar and Astronomy category emphasizes men’s mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication (e.g., date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phase display, etc.). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
The shortlisted watches are: Arnold & Son Luna Magna, Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42, Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, Christiaan Van Der Klaauw CVDK Planetarium Eise Eisinga, IWC Schaffhausen Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Edition “Mojave Desert,” and the Konstantin Chaykin Minotaur.
Further reading:
- Arnold & Son Luna Magna And Luna Magna Ultimate 1: Marbles, Moons, And Magnificence
- Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Planetarium Eise Eisinga: Taking The Solar System From The Ceiling And Putting It On Your Wrist
- IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition Mojave Desert: For When You Feel The Need For (Ceramic) Speed
- 3 New Breitling Vintage-Style Watches, Including A Gorgeous Split-Seconds Chronograph, For The Premier Collection
- Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar: Time Really Is Ultra Thin!
GPHG 2021: Mechanical Exception
Nominated Mechanical Exception watches in the 2021 GPHG
The Mechanical Exception category features watches with a special mechanism such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a striking or any other acoustic function, a special escapement, a belt-driven movement, or any other original and/or exceptional horological concept.
The shortlisted watches are: Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer, Christophe Claret Napoleon, Jacob & Co Opera Godfather Minute Repeater, Miki Eleta Svemir, Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic, and the Ulysse Nardin UFO.
Further reading:
- Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer*: A Superlative Watch But Is It Really A Chronometer?
- Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, The World’s Thinnest Watch: Shaving Microns To Make Millionths
GPHG 2021: Chronograph
Nominated Chronograph watches in the 2021 GPHG
Timepieces entered into the Chronograph category are mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
The shortlisted watches are: Angelus U30 Black Tourbillon, Flyback and Split-Second Chronograph, Breitling Premier B09 Chronograph 40, IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705,” Louis Erard Le Chrono Monopoussoir Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein, Tudor Black Bay Chrono, and the Zenith Chronomaster Sport
Further reading:
- Zenith Chronomaster Sport: A Chronograph That Reinvigorates The Senses
- Ghostbusting & The Angelus U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante
- 3 New Breitling Vintage-Style Watches, Including A Gorgeous Split-Seconds Chronograph, For The Premier Collection
GPHG 2021: Diver’s
Nominated Diver’s watches in the 2021 GPHG
The Diver’s category contains watches linked to the field of diving, whose functions, materials, and design are suited to this activity.
The shortlisted watches are: Doxa SUB 300 carbon COSC Aquamarine, Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver Skyline Blue, Archimèdes by Milus Orange Coral, Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5 mm, Reservoir Hydrosphere Bronze “The Greg Lecoeur Edition,” and the Ulysse Nardin Diver X Skeleton.
Further reading:
- Ulysse Nardin Blast: Highly Volatile Explosive
- Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver: All Killer, No Filler?
- Reservoir Watch Supercharged Classic: (Relatively) Affordable Swiss Quality
GPHG 2021: Jewellery
Nominated Jewellery watches in the 2021 GPHG
The Jewellery category includes watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of the art of jewelry and gem setting. The watches are also distinguished by the choice of stones.
The shortlisted watches are: Bulgari Serpenti Barocko, Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Bouton Décor Byzantin, Chopard Flower Power, Hermès Kelly Joaillerie, Piaget Exquisite Moments, and the Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo secret watch.
Further reading:
GPHG 2021: Artistic Crafts
Nominated Artistic Crafts watches in the 2021 GPHG
Watches in the Artistic Crafts category demonstrate exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enameling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), skeletonizing, and more.
The shortlisted watches are: Andersen Genève Jumping Hours 40th Anniversary in platinum, Bulgari Diva’s Dream Peacock Collection, Hermès Arceau Toucan de Paradis, Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem, MB&F LM SE Eddy Jaquet Around the World in Eighty Days, and the Voutilainen Duluth Bridge.
Further reading:
- Andersen Genève Jour Et Nuit: From Its Beginning To The New Jumping Hours 40th Anniversary
- MB&F x Eddy Jaquet LM Split Escapement Jules Verne: Science Fiction Stories Exquisitely Engraved In Metal
- 5 Of The Best Watches From Bulgari At The 2021 LVMH Watch Week
- Hermès Takes Flight With The Arceau Toucan De Paradis
GPHG 2021: Petite Aiguille
Nominated Petite Aiguille watches in the 2021 GPHG
Watches entered into the Petite Aiguille category have a retail price between CHF 3,500 and CHF 10,000. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.
The shortlisted watches are: Breitling Top Time Deus Limited Edition, Garrick S4, Louis Erard Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter, Seiko Re-creation of King Seiko KSK, Trilobe Nuit Fantastique in Grained Black, and the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic.
Further reading:
- Garrick S4: Added Value At A More Affordable Price
- Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein x Manuel Emch x A Cast Of Guest Artists = Amazing (And Affordable) Watches
GPHG 2021: Challenge
Nominated Challenge watches in the 2021 GPHG
Watches entered into the Challenge category have a retail price equal to or under CHF 3,500. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.
The shortlisted watches are: anOrdain Model 1 in Payne’s grey fumé, CIGA Design Blue Planet, Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH Caribbean, Furlan Marri MR. Grey Reference 1041-A, Massena Lab Uni-Racer, and the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy.
Further reading:
Let us know your favorites in the comments below and look for our prediction round tables coming soon!
For more information, please visit www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/gphg-2021/nominated-watches.
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Breitling will probably win everything, even the categories they’re not in.
I suppose I’d be vaguely happy if Armin Strom or Chanel win the lasses, Grand Seiko the lads, Lederer for Fancy Mechanical, Voutilainen for Arts & Crafts (the safest bet of all), Garrick for wee, and anOrdain for challenged.
Lange and JLC are conspicuous by their absence again, and I’m not sure whether to be disappointed or proud of them for not entering.
Dear Ian, dear Quill and Pad team,
every year, a great fun. GPHG. I enjoy this alot.
Ladies: Armin Strom – great idea, great design
Ladies complication: Van Cleef & Arpels – most peotic movement
Men´s: it would have been M. Grossmann Hamatic (sadly outvoted)
Men´s complication: MB & F – it is a true complication
Iconic: it would have been Corum Golden Brigde (sadly outvoted)
Tourbillon: Girard Perregaux – historical
Cal/Astro: C. v. d. Klaauw – it is about Astronomy
Mech. Exception: If Miki Elata is not an exception – what else???
Chrono: no comment
Diver: Doxa – the category´s title is diver
Jewellery: Piaget – this is jewellery
Artistic: Andersen or Voutillainen – undecided
Pet. Aiguille: Garrick mostly deserves it
Challange: Furlan Marri are the most visible for more than a year
All the best, thank you for monitoring the GPHG 2021 and happy to read more, Thomas
The categories have always felt a bit weird, but the worst is the mechanical exception category. Comparing the Ulysse Nardin UFO with the Piaget Altiplano make no sense at all.