Since its launch in 2005, Only Watch has been one of the most – if not the most – significant auctions in the watch world. A biennial charity auction founded by Luc Pettavino, Only Watch is organized by the Monegasque Association Against Muscular Dystrophy (MAAMD) under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco.
Brands donate unique timepieces to be auctioned; all of the proceeds go to helping finance research against Duchenne muscular dystrophy, a debilitating and life-threatening genetic disorder that affects around one in 3,500 boys, including Pettavino’s own son, who died of the disease in November 2016.
The 2019 auction raised a record $43 million. During its tenure, Only Watch has raised more than $70 million in total for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research.
Only Watch 2021
Ahead of the ninth edition of the auction taking place on November 6, 2021 in Geneva, here are all of the 53 unique watches going under the hammer.
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Only Watch Unique Piece
Riffing off the recently released Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire, this variation with orange elements – this edition of Only Watch’s corporate color – in the trifecta of dial-side bridges, hands, and strap stitching is striking against the black base plate hand-guilloche by Kari Voutilainen.
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force for Only Watch 2021
Further reading:
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire: Highlighting Technicity With Transparency
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force: Now In Pink Gold And Black (With Live Photos)
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force: Invention Is No Accident, Or How To Start Fresh
Quick Facts Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Only Watch Unique Piece
Case: 41 x 12.65 mm, stainless steel
Movement: in-house automatic Caliber ASB19 with micro rotor on dial side and Geneva-drive constant force barrel, 25,200 vph, frequency, 72-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; power reserve
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 16,900 – 25,000 Swiss francs
Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire Only Watch
Constituting the only skull theme in the Only Watch lineup this time around, Bell & Ross’ crazy Cyber Skull is particularly attractive with the sapphire crystal skull and crossbones in orange (signifying that it is part of Only Watch 2021 and a unique piece).
Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire for Only Watch 2021
The colorless sapphire crystal case is machined from three blocks of the corundum, while the three-dimensional skull and crossbones (with the balance visible in its forehead) is machined from six blocks. The orange color comes from a metalization on the back.
Further reading: Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull: The Skull Makes A Comeback (Or It Never Left)
Quick Facts Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire Only Watch
Case: 43.3 x 45 x 14.07 mm, sapphire crystal
Movement: manually wound Caliber BR-CAL.309, 48 hours power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; power reserve automaton
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 90,000 – 110,000 Swiss francs
Bovet Miss Audrey Sweet Fairy Only Watch
The unique Miss Audrey Sweet Fairy combines lacquered sugar crystals, Super-LumiNova, and miniature hand-painting for a very playful and vibrant creation based on the new Miss Audrey Sweet Art.
Bovet Miss Audrey Sweet Fairy for Only Watch 2021
First a miniature painting of a fairy was painted in the center of the dial using a mixture of paint and Super-LumiNova, then the rest of the dial was coated in orange Super-LumiNova. Sugar crystals were then applied over the orange Super-LumiNova with its own orange lacquer, which keeps the sugar somewhat translucent, allowing for nearly the entire dial to glow in the dark.
Additionally, the shaped hands come together every hour to form a heart.
This incredibly beautiful timepiece is housed in the convertible Amadeo case that enables it to transform from wristwatch to a table clock and even a pendant.
Further reading: Bovet Fleurier Miss Audrey Sweet Art: Real Sugar Crystals On The Dial Glisten Like Tiny Colorful Pearls (No Licking!)
Quick Facts Bovet Miss Audrey Sweet Fairy Only Watch
Case: 36 x 11 mm, convertible Amadeo case in stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber 11BA15, 42-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 45,000 – 70,000 Swiss francs
Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021
On vintage watches there is a tendency (not just for Breguet’s watches, but for those of many brands) for dials, hands, and lume to change colors as the watches age. In the case of Breguet, some black dials would take on a bronzish patina, which, as any collector will tell you, is extremely sought after. And this “tropical dial” look has made its way into modern watches that revive older styles.
Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021
If Breguet wanted to recreate the original the dial this watch is based upon then it would have been black, but since so many people are enamored with the patina of use and age using this color becomes the way to make a watch look and feel vintage. Which is why a dial in this color makes absolute sense as an Only Watch unique piece.
The outside look of the Type XX Only Watch 2021 isn’t the only difference from Breguet’s regular Type XX collection models: the Type XX Only Watch sports a vintage manual-wind caliber, the Valjoux 235 with column wheel and flyback function, a very fitting movement for a vintage-inspired watch.
Further reading:
Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021: Historically Inspired With Vintage Appeal
Complete Guide To Type 20 Pilot’s Watch Chronographs
Quick Facts Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021
Case: 38.3 x 13.9 mm, 18-karat red gold
Movement: manually wound Caliber Valjoux 235, 45-hour power reserve, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph with 30-minute counter, bidirectionally rotating bezel
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: CHF 35,000 – 50,000
De Bethune x Voutilainen Kind of Magic
After partnering with Laurent Ferrier to create the Arpal One for the 2017 edition of Only Watch and with Urwerk to present the Moon Satellite at the 2019 Only Watch, De Bethune now partners with Kari Voutilainen to present this very special watch that can be worn with one of two sides face up thanks to a cool new case.
De Bethune x Voutilainen Kind of Magic for Only Watch 2021
To change the side that is facing up, the watch must be removed from the wrist. The case can then be freely moved using a finger to rotate it. For some cool head imagery, think of the way an acrobat flips around on a trapeze.
Trading the science fiction-like “De Bethune side” on one dial for central dead beat seconds à la Kari Voutilainen’s guilloche beauty on the other is a particularly interesting technical challenge. Though the time is the same on both sides, the case is upside down when flipped to the reverse side (the time without extra gearing would rotate counterclockwise).
A complex system of gears and pinions allows the hands to turn in the correct direction, whichever side is facing up. De Bethune’s Denis Flageollet explained that he had to reverse and reposition the motion work gear train on the other side, an exercise that also required mastery of gear train design and production to avoid play in the hands.
The result is exquisite. For a lover of independent watchmaking, this could well be “the” only watch of this auction!
Further reading: 5 Of The Best De Bethune Models In The Last 12 Months Plus Bonus Video Of The De Bethune x Voutilainen Kind Of Magic For Only Watch 2021
Quick Facts De Bethune x Voutilainen Kind of Magic
Case: 43.3 mm, titanium, reversible
Movement: manually wound Caliber OW21 with titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, self-regulating twin spring barrels, silicon escape wheel, 5 Hz/36,000 vph, four-day power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes on one side; hours, minutes, dead beat seconds on the other side
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 200,000 – 250,000 Swiss francs
Hermès H08 Only Watch
The H08 is Hermès’ version of the everyday sporty watch, introduced earlier in 2021 to great acclaim. In fact, it is my view that the dial and case together make the visuals so successful here. One would not exist as promisingly without the other to express the goals of the watch’s makers: to ring in a new era in which men can perhaps express a certain sensibility to design without worrying about risking any sense of masculinity.
Two unique Hermès H08 models for Only Watch 2021
Here, Hermès offers a set of two one-off H08 models in titanium, one on a bracelet and the other on an orange strap. Both feature orange elements on the dial that the regular version does not have. And as Hermès and Only Watch 2021 both have this color orange as corporate colors, it all fits together just beautifully.
Further reading:
New Hermès HO8: A Square Take On The Casual Sporty Watch
Hermès H08 Up Close And Personal (Video)
Quick Facts Hermès H08 Only Watch
Case: 39 x 39 mm, titanium
Movement: automatic Hermès Caliber H1837 with twin spring barrels; 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 50-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: one unique set of two watches
Auction estimate: 14,000 – 18,000 Swiss francs
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon Only Watch
On the original Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon, the dial is made of two layers of sapphire crystal and smoky quartz, but the Only Watch edition did away with the quartz and replaced it with beautiful, handcrafted plique-à-jour enamel.
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon for Only Watch 2021
The whisker-thin strips of gold surrounding the opaque enamel create a geometric dance of openings that have been selectively filled with red, orange, and yellow enamel. Each enamel cell was very carefully filled and fired multiple times to ensure perfect thickness and adhesion to the white gold frame.
The dial was then flat-polished with ultra-fine diamond polish for a perfectly smooth surface to highlight the texture of the plique-à-jour enamel. The white gold frame has one circular opening for the tourbillon, otherwise the rest of the dial is a smattering of symmetrical angled lines.
The delicateness of the dial astonishes, with the translucent enamel hanging gingerly between threads of white gold, the colors symbolizing happiness, passion, and optimism.
Known as one of the hardest and most delicate forms of enamel, the plique-à-jour dial created for this piece is a stunning achievement.
Further reading:
Quick Facts Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon Only Watch
Case: 41 x 13.36 mm, red gold
Dial: plique-à-jour enamel
Movement: automatic Caliber JD 2625SQ with 60-second flying tourbillon, seven-day power reserve, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 160,000 – 200,000 Swiss francs
Andersen Genève x Edward Sexton Quotidiana Only Watch
Andersen Genève presents this watch in partnership with Edward Sexton, a Savile Row bespoke tailor. Just above the 21-karat blue gold disk displaying the weekdays, we find Sexton’s needle-and-thread logo at 12 o’clock as a lip coming off the hour ring.
Andersen Genève x Edward Sexton Quotidiana for Only Watch 2021
The days are offered in seven different languages, which I take to represent the lack of borders involved in love and charity: Dimanche (Sunday/French), Montag (Monday/German), Tuesday, Mercoledi (Wednesday/Italian), Jueves (Thursday/Spanish), Joum’a (Friday/Arabic), and Shabbat (Saturday/Hebrew). Andersen’s logo is directly opposite that at 6 o’clock, just above the blue date display.
Aside from the timepiece, the winning bidder will also be offered a made-to-measure suit by Edward Sexton. Also included in the lot is the opportunity to visit both workshops: Andersen Genève in Geneva to learn how the timepiece was crafted and Edward Sexton in London, where the winning bidder will choose materials, colors, buttons, etc. for their suit.
Quick Facts Andersen Genève x Edward Sexton Quotidiana Only Watch
Case: red and white gold, 40 x 9 mm
Movement: automatic modified Frédéric Piguet Caliber 11.50 with twin spring barrels, power reserve 72 hours, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; day, date
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 60,000 – 70,000 Swiss francs
Remark: this lot comes with a made-to-measure suit by Edward Sexton
Artya Son of Sound Guitar Is That So? John McLaughlin for Only Watch 2021
In collaboration with San Francisco-based artist Marq Spusta and Geneva-based gem setting and engraving workshop Blandenier, one of John McLaughlin’s album covers has been reproduced both on one of his electric guitars and on the dial of a unique watch: ArtyA’s exotic Son of Sound jump-hour watch model in the shape of a guitar headstock and signed by McLaughlin on the back.
Artya Son of Sound Guitar Is That So? John McLaughlin for Only Watch 2021
The unique dial is the fruit of 110 hours’ worth of work by Blandenier, reproducing the design of one of McLaughlin’s favorite guitars made by American luthier Paul Reed Smith, which was in turn based on the cover design of McLaughlin’s album Is That So?.
Signed on the 37 x 49 x 15 mm case back by John McLaughlin, the watch features an ArtyA Woodstock chronograph movement with 50-hour power reserve, jump hour time display, and tuning pegs as chronograph pushers. The dial features six gold guitar strings.
Further reading:
Quick Facts Artya Son of Sound Guitar Is That So? John McLaughlin for Only Watch 2021
Case: 37 x 49 x 15 mm, black DLC-coated stainless steel and 18-karat gold in the shape of a guitar with John McLaughlin’s signature engraved on the case back; functional tuning knob crowns
Dial: hand-painted in the colors of John McLaughlin’s album Is That So? by Blandenier according to artwork by Marq Spusta; 6 gold “strings” and “f holes”
Movement: automatic Artya Woodstock caliber (Concepto base); 50-hour power reserve
Functions: jump hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph
Limitation: unique piece
Remark: this lot comes with the hand-painted Paul Reed Smith guitar as well as the opportunity to meet John McLaughlin and visit the Artya and Blandenier workshops
Auction estimate: CHF 35,000 – 50,000
Atelier de Chronométrie AdC21 Only Watch
Exuding what the Atelier de Chronométrie team calls “delicate elegance,” this young Spanish brand specializing in unique pieces has donated an exquisite 18-karat pink gold watch with a warm two-tone pink sector dial housed in a new case with stepped lugs. The result is timeless and chic, while the blued hand underscores the fact that this watch features indirect center seconds.
Atelier de Chronométrie AdC21 for Only Watch 2021
The team led by Santiago Martinez stresses that its main concept in creating the AdC21 Only Watch was to create a unique timepiece symbolizing the human warmth behind the Only Watch charity auction. The design of this watch powered by a vintage Omega 283 ébauche was inspired by watchmaking of the 1930s and ’40s.
Quick Facts Atelier de Chronométrie AdC21 Only Watch
Case: 37 mm, 18-karat pink gold
Movement: manually wound vintage Omega 283 ébauche with free-sprung balance and indirect center seconds and 4 German silver bridges, 43-hour power reserve, 2.5 Hz/18,000 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 35,000 – 55,000 Swiss francs
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Only Watch
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Only Watch is the last unique piece of Reference 15202. And it is very unique: the case and bracelet combine sandblasted titanium with polished Bulk Metallic Glass, the first time this amorphous material has been used at Audemars Piguet (though we saw it used earlier in 2021 in the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL).
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin for Only Watch 2021
The dial evokes the origins of the Royal Oak line from 1972 with its Petite Tapisserie pattern, though the applied white gold hour markers and hands are coated with Super-LumiNova for modern comfort in reading the dial at a glance.
Quick Facts Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin Only Watch
Case: 39 x 8.1 mm, sandblasted titanium with polished Bulk Metallic Glass
Movement: automatic Caliber 2121; 40-hour power reserve; 19,800 vph/2.75 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; date
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 160,000 – 320,000 Swiss francs
Baltic Pulsometer Chronograph Monopusher 1/1
This relatively new micro brand joins Only Watch for the first time with a monopusher chronograph outfitted with a vintage Venus 150 movement from the 1940s that has been entirely refurbished in Switzerland.
Baltic Pulsometer Chronograph Monopusher 1/1 for Only Watch 2021
Combined with a glossy black dial, thin gold leaf-shaped hands and applied gold Breguet numerals, this watch could have come straight from the 1940s altogether.
Quick Facts Baltic Pulsometer Chronograph Monopusher 1/1
Case: 36 mm, stainless steel
Movement: vintage manually wound Venus Caliber 150 with column wheel monopusher chronograph; 40-hour power reserve; 19,800 vph/2.75 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; chronograph
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 12,000 – 18,000 Swiss francs
Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad for Only Watch
Inspired by a historical Blancpain diver’s watch from the mid-1960s that was used by German navy combat divers, it is likely the characteristic “no radiation” stamp on the dial indicating the absence of radium that has made this style so beloved. Its rejuvenation in the modern collection has made it one of the most popular Fifty Fathoms variations.
Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad for Only Watch 2021
This one-off variation on the theme is characterized by a chapter ring, hands, and bezel in orange-colored Super-LumiNova, the corporate color of the 2021 edition of Only Watch. The dominant element on the dial remains the “no radiation” logo, whose original yellow and red have been replaced by orange and yellow.
Quick Facts Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad for Only Watch
Case: 40.3 x 13.23 mm, stainless steel, 300-meter water resistance
Movement: automatic Blancpain Caliber 1151 with silicon balance spring, twin spring barrels, 100-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 12,000 – 18,000 Swiss francs
Boucheron Ajourée, Massy Le Caméléon
This lovely quartz-powered jewelry watch is set with brilliant-cut diamonds, various colored sapphires, tsavorites, and one ruby to form a chameleon crafted in polished white gold.
Boucheron Ajourée, Massy Le Caméléon for Only Watch 2021
Due to the chameleon’s curved shape and the many gemstones, this creation is much more complex to make than it looks.
Quick Facts Boucheron Ajourée, Massy Le Caméléon
Case: 18 x 6.8 mm, white gold set with diamonds, button for time setting on case back
Movement: quartz Caliber ETA E01.701/h3
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 20,000 – 30,000 Swiss francs
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum
With November printed in orange on this very, very thin perpetual calendar, Bulgari marks its debut at the charity watch auction. But not only is the month orange, it is spelled “NOW” instead of “NOV,” paying extra tribute to the auction month. Furthermore, this unique case is crafted in rare tantalum.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum for Only Watch 2021
The Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar is the current world record holder as the thinnest perpetual calendar on the market. The dial features the hours and minutes in the center, as usual, and a retrograde date display arching over the upper half of the dial. On the bottom half are a pair of displays for day of the week and month, each indicated using a small hand and abbreviations printed directly on the dial.
At 6 o’clock, a small retrograde leap year indicator nestles between the two subdials. The aesthetic follows the typical Octo Finissimo style that has been established for a while and that many have fallen in love with: a hard, angled case paired with a short-linked bracelet and a round bezel sporting an octagonal opening (hence the Octo moniker) provide a distinct look to the collection.
Further reading: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar: Time Really Is Ultra Thin!
Quick Facts Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum
Case: 40 x 5.8 mm, tantalum
Movement: automatic Caliber BVL 305, 60 hours power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz, ultra-thin 2.75 mm in height
Functions: hours, minutes; perpetual calendar with retrograde date, day, month, retrograde leap year indication
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 80,000 – 120,000 Swiss francs
Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Bicompax Annual Watch
With all the charm of a vintage watch but all the reliability of a modern watch, in my estimation this is quite possibly the most attractive timepiece that Carl F. Bucherer has ever produced thanks to the original design and the unique blue coloring.
Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Bicompax Annual Calendar for Only Watch 2021
And it contains a very practical annual calendar, which only needs manual correction at the end of the month in February. The annual calendar is something of the middle ground between the most basic calendar watches and complex perpetual calendars, automatically adjusting for each month with 30 or 31 days.
The winner of this watch will also receive a factory tour of Carl F. Bucherer in Lucerne and meet with the brand’s energetic CEO, Sascha Moeri. The entire program spans two to three days and includes travel and accommodation.
Further reading: Annual Calendars Are Goldilocks Complications: Not Too Hot, Not Too Cold, Just Right
Quick Facts Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Bicompax Annual Watch
Case: 41 x 14.15 mm, white gold
Movement: automatic Caliber CFB 1972 (ETA base with Dubois Dépraz module), 42-hour power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; annual calendar with large date, chronograph
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 20,000 – 40,000 Swiss francs
Chanel The J12 Paradoxe Only 2
Like at Only Watch 2019 with the J12 Inséparables set, Chanel has once again provided the ultimate partner or buddy watches. This lot comprises two brand-new automatic J12 Paradoxe models powered by Chanel’s manufacture movement in a unique black-hued execution.
Chanel The J12 Paradoxe Only 2 for Only Watch 2021
With one in black with a white section and one in white with a black section, the biggest problem here is deciding who gets to wear which watch. This unique design relies on a technical challenge: cutting two highly resistant ceramic cases of different colors and combining them to make only one case – without breaking them.
The J12 Inséparables pair from 2019 ended up going for 130,000 Swiss francs, in my opinion a stunning result, so I expect bidding to be brisk for this as well.
Quick Facts Chanel The J12 Paradoxe Only 2
Case: 38 x 12.6 mm, one in white/black ceramic and one in black/white ceramic
Movement: automatic blackened Caliber 12.1, power reserve 70 hours; 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, officially certified C.O.S.C. chronometer
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: unique piece of each
Remark: five-year guarantee
Auction estimate: 30,000 – 40,000 Swiss francs
Charles Girardier 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock
This new brand is absolutely delightful in every way, which is why after I got to know the watches I wasn’t surprised that its debut timepiece won the Ladies Complication category of the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
Charles Girardier 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock for Only Watch 2021
Having had the opportunity to see the Tribute to Jackson Pollock during Geneva Watch Days 2021, I would also not be surprised if the clever and well-executed watch were to find a good home for a good cause.
The unique “fusion enamel” used to re-created Jackson Pollock’s style on the dial needs six days’ time to complete. The dial also features the “mysterious signature,” a really terrific example of kinetic mechanical creativity.
The winning bidder may request their initials or a lucky number as part of the “mysterious signature.” The lucky bidder will also get to tour Charles Girardier’s facilities in Geneva in addition to the dial manufactory where the enamel is made.
Quick Facts Charles Girardier 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock
Case: 41 x 12.2 mm, pink gold
Dial: oven-fired “fusion enamel”
Movement: automatic Caliber CG1809 (Timeless manufacture) with one-minute flying tourbillon and peripheral rotor, 46-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; rotating disks with logo
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 75,000 – 90,000 Swiss francs
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Only Watch
Introduced in 2020, the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono is Chopard’s casual sporty chic bracelet watch with chronograph. The Alpine Eagle XL Chrono’s movement leaves little to be desired: the manufacture Chopard 03.05-C caliber is a fully integrated chronograph movement featuring a column wheel chronograph with a generous power reserve of 60 hours. It is also officially chronometer certified.
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono for Only Watch 2021
The Only Watch version features a unique dial made of natural Swiss granite from the Graubünden region, speckled with blue and green inclusions “recalling the colors of the Alpine massif seen from the sky” as Chopard describes it.
Further reading:
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono: A ‘Big Friendly Giant’
Chopard Alpine Eagle: A Cool – And Ethical – Sports Casual Watch
Quick Facts Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono
Case: 44 x 13.15 mm, beadblasted Lucent Steel A223
Movement: automatic Caliber Chopard 03.05-C; 60-hour power reserve; 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, officially C.O.S.C. chronometer certified
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; flyback chronograph, date
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 30,000 – 50,000 Swiss francs
Cyrus Klepcys Dice Only Watch
This striking timepiece for the charity auction is based on the existing Klepcys Dice by Cyrus, but offered in a color scheme that does not exist in the two limited edition versions that have been released so far.
Cyrus Klepcys Dice for Only Watch 2021
Dice stands for “double independent chronograph evolution” and indicates that it is a double chronograph able to measure two short intervals of time either independently or simultaneously. Though it may sound like it, it is not a rattrapante or split-second chronograph, whose two hands begin at the same time but can end at different times. These two chronograph hands are independent and each is manipulated by its own monopusher button.
And the chronograph mechanisms are fully visible from the front of the watch.
Quick Facts Cyrus Klepcys Dice Only Watch
Case: 42 x 16.5, titanium
Movement: automatic Caliber CYR718 with two column wheels, 72-hour power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 60-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; two independent chronographs
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 35,000 – 45,000 Swiss francs
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante Sunrise
A unique version of the recently released Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante, this watch features a first for the brand in that the split-second chronograph assembly is visible on the dial. This technical delicacy is combined with warm, vivid hues of the orange corporate color of Only Watch and a unique engraving professing “courage every second.”
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante Sunrise for Only Watch 2021
This movement is the result of a fruitful cooperation with movement complication specialist Chronode, whose Jean-François Mojon has been able to position the ballet of cams, levers, and wheels of the patented satellite minute wheel train and patent-pending split-second mechanism on full view. It looks particularly special against the bright orange of the CVD-coated split-second main plate.
Quick Facts Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante Sunrise
Case: 42.5 x 15.3 mm, stainless steel with integrated, quick-change steel bracelet (“easy release” system)
Movement: automatic Caliber SHX6 (by Chronode) with variable inertia balance wheel split-second monopusher rattrapante featuring two column wheels, patented satellite minute train, and patent-pending split-second clamp, 100% recycled red gold rotor, 28,800 vph/4Hz frequency, 60-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; split-second chronograph
Limitation: unique piece
Estimate: 60,000 – 90,000 Swiss francs
D. Candaux x Saturno DC7 Genesis
Its good looks, biplanar flying 30° tourbillon, movement in natural anodized titanium, and recessed (“magic”) crown are not what is so unique about this watch. It’s the collaborative nature of it, which has resulted in something unique in every sense.
D. Candaux x Saturno DC7 Genesis for Only Watch 2021
Mikki Saturno is an artist specialized in contemporary painting, and he has collaborated with independent watchmaker David Candaux to create the miniature painting on the dial of this unusual timepiece.
Quick Facts D. Candaux x Saturno DC7 Genesis
Case: 44 x 14 mm, grade 5 titanium
Movement: manually wound Caliber H70 Genesis with one-minute flying 30° tourbillon, 72-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitations: unique piece
Auction estimate: 120,000 – 160,000 Swiss francs
Fabergé Dalliance Choose Hope
This design of the Fabergé Dalliance Choose Hope was inspired by a silver-plated enamel and rock crystal desk clock created by Fabergé workmaster Henrik Wigström in Saint Petersburg around 1910. Fabergé’s head of watches, Aurélie Picaud, is always sifting through archives looking for inspiration for her playful timepieces among the old clocks and objets d’art of this company’s long and illustrious history. That original clock also utilized indicators around its periphery instead of conventional hands – an element that was recreated here by modern Fabergé workmaster Jean-Marc Wiederrecht of Agenhor.
Fabergé Dalliance Choose Hope for Only Watch 2021
Inspired by the idea of “wishing on a star,” this unique watch features four ruby-set shooting stars, the ruby being a gemstone associated with passion, prosperity, and protection.
A hand-engraved pink gold dial with the words “Choose Hope” puts the Only Watch cause at the heart of this design, while a playful sun and moon point to the hours and minutes.
Further reading: Fabergé’s Lady Levity Combines Original Mechanics With Unique Design
Quick Facts Fabergé Dalliance Choose Hope
Case: 36 x 12.07 mm, pink gold
Movement: manually winding Agenhor Caliber AGH 6911 with 50-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Dial: white mother-of-pearl with ruby-set shooting stars and “Choose Hope” engraving
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 25,000 – 40,000 Swiss francs
F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue
François-Paul Journe developed this watch according to an original idea given to him by Francis Ford Coppola during a dinner the watchmaker enjoyed at Coppola’s house in Napa Valley. The idea involved showing the time using a real hand.
F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue for Only Watch 2021
Journe thought about the idea for two more years, after which Coppola sent some sketches. Then Journe worked on developing the prototype for another seven years – the prototype presented here. The fingers are inspired by a mechanical prosthetic hand created by Ambroise Paré (1509-1590), the father of modern surgery.
Quick Facts F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue
Case: 42 x 10.7 mm, tantalum
Movement: automatic FFC Octa Caliber 1300.3, prototype, 18-karat pink gold plates and bridges, 120-hour power reserve, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency
Functions: digital hours, rotating minutes
Limitations: unique piece
Auction estimate: 300,000 – 400,000 Swiss francs
Frédérique Constant Highlife Monolithic Manufacture Only Watch 2021
Earlier in 2021, Frédérique Constant revealed its latest piece of silicon movement technology in its Highlife Monolithic Manufacture, which features a movement using compliant silicon technology for the oscillator, replacing 26 components. The compliant mechanism in use in this watch is a single-piece structure – a monolithic silicon whole – that replaces several individual traditional components. Therefore, the need to assemble individual parts is eradicated, simultaneously reducing the energy-robbing friction associated with these parts that is inherent in all mechanical movements. Compliance uses its ability to “deform” to transfer energy.
Frédérique Constant Highlife Monolithic Manufacture for Only Watch 2021
Though Frédérique Constant is not the first in the watch industry to use this – that honor belongs to Zenith – it is the first to make it work serially and to reduce the monolithic part to the size of a traditional balance wheel.
Quick Facts Frédérique Constant Highlife Monolithic Manufacture Only Watch 2021
Case: 41 x 12.65 mm, pink gold
Movement: automatic Caliber FC-810 with silicon monolithic oscillator, 80-hour power reserve, 40 Hz/288,000 vph frequency, silicon escapement
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitations: unique piece
Auction estimate: 28,000 – 35,000 Swiss francs
Girard-Perregaux x Bamford Casquette Only Watch Edition
The Casquette by Girard-Perregaux is one of the brand’s most-loved watches from the 1970s. It is still sought after and much-emulated today, so the brand and London-based customizer Bamford Watch Department have rebooted a unique piece in honor of Only Watch.
Girard-Perregaux x Bamford Casquette for Only Watch 2021
Having most recently collaborated on the Laureato Ghost, the two firms decided to reinterpret the 1976 Casquette with an interesting twist: a forged carbon case in addition to a new and improved movement.
Quick Facts Girard-Perregaux x Bamford Casquette Only Watch Edition
Case: 42.4 x 33.6 x 10.87 mm, forged carbon and titanium
Movement: quartz Caliber GP03980
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph, second time zone
Limitations: unique piece
Auction estimate: 10,000 – 20,000 Swiss francs
Moser & Cie Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Only Watch
With its minimalist yet highly technical expression ensconced within a braceleted sports watch, the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Only Watch is surely a favorite for many in this listing of unique timepieces.
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon for Only Watch 2021
This watch’s technology comes straight from the successful H. Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon of 2020, which integrates technology from MB&F: a prominent flying tourbillon rises from the dial at 12 o’clock featuring a cylindrical hairspring as well as an inclined, transparent sapphire crystal dial with a “watermarked” H. Moser logo and small hands indicating the hours and minutes, the idea behind which is to allow the wearer to enjoy the unimpeded view of the tourbillon.
This watch also features the sporty Streamliner case and bracelet as well as a deep Vantablack dial, the darkest manmade substance available (for more on it see How Vantablack And Other Coating Technologies Are Disrupting Watch Norms).
The winner of this lot will also be invited to Schaffhausen for a tour of the H. Moser & Cie manufacture and museum.
Further reading:
How Vantablack And Other Coating Technologies Are Disrupting Watch Norms
Hands On & Live Photos: MB&F x H. Moser LM101 And H. Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon
Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic With Full Metal Bracelet: Inspiring Amnemori!
Quick Facts H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Only Watch
Case: 40 mm, stainless steel with high domed sapphire crystal (case height without sapphire crystal 10 mm)
Dial: Vantablack
Movement: automatic Caliber HMC 810; 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency; one-minute flying tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring; power reserve 72 hours
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 60,000 – 80,000 Swiss francs
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Only Watch
This brand has mastered the art of making colored sapphire crystal watches to such an extent that most other brands seem to have tossed their towels in the ring. In January 2021, Hublot debuted a vibrant orange color at the digital LVMH Watch Week in addition to a new automatic tourbillon movement that also powers this Only Watch version.
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon for Only Watch 2021
The Big Bang Tourbillon Only Watch is quite spectacular with its orange sapphire crystal bezel and fully see-through movement. As if Hublot had known that 2021 was the perfect year to figure out how to make orange sapphire crystal . . .
Further reading:
4 New Sapphire Crystal-Cased Watches At Watches & Wonders 2021 From Hublot, Chanel, And Purnell
5 Standouts From Hublot’s 2021 Digital LVMH Watch Week: And, Yes, We Have Rainbows
Quick Facts Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Only Watch
Case: 45 x 15.3 mm, transparent and orange sapphire crystal and resin
Movement: skeletonized automatic Caliber HUB6035 with one-minute tourbillon and micro rotor, bridges in sapphire crystal, power reserve 72 hours, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: unique piece
Remark: comes with two straps and a titanium deployant clasp
Auction estimate: 160,000 – 180,000 Swiss francs
Jacob & Co Epic X Chrono Black Titanium with Orange Band
Jacob & Co clothes this unique version of its signature 47 mm case in orange and black to represent Only Watch’s 2021 corporate color. The dial features a smoked sapphire crystal that provides a partial view of the semi-skeletonized Swiss movement.
Jacob & Co Epic X Chrono Black Titanium with Orange Band for Only Watch 2021
“The global coronavirus pandemic is far from over, but we are beginning to see a bright orange sunrise on the horizon,” said Jacob Arabo, founder of Jacob & Co.
Quick Facts Jacob & Co Epic X Chrono Black Titanium with Orange Band
Case: 47 x 14 mm, DLC-coated titanium with ceramic bezel and rubber pushers
Movement: automatic Caliber JCAA05, Swiss made column wheel chronograph, 48-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
Limitations: unique piece
Auction estimate: 20,000 – 25,000 Swiss francs
Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon Only Watch 2021
Taking two of his most well known collections – the Wristmon and the Mars series – and combining them was probably not an easy task. Nonetheless, independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin managed to create the first tourbillon in the world to tick to Mars time. While smiling at you.
Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon for Only Watch 2021
If you love what Chaykin has already produced in his career, you are very, very likely to be a huge fan of this grinning Martian containing Chaykin’s first Martian tourbillon escapement.
Further reading: Why I Bought It: Konstantin Chaykin Joker
Quick Facts Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon Only Watch 2021
Case: 40 x 13.4 mm, bulat steel
Movement: manually wound Caliber K.22-O with one-minute (Mars)/61.65 seconds (earth) tourbillon, 48-hour power reserve, 19,800 vph (Mars)/19,270 vph (earth) frequency, 326 components
Functions: hours, minutes; date, weekday, day/night indication (Mars time)
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 40,000 – 60,000 Swiss francs
Krayon Anywhere
The Krayon Anywhere Only Watch is one of the most elegant watches in the entire auction, and its artistic dial inspired by the Claude Monet painting Impression, soleil levant (Impression, Rising Sun) is really to die for. This reinterpretation is composed of miniature champlevé enamel painting on the Anywhere dial.
Krayon Anywhere for Only Watch 2021
And the finishing on this caliber is so exquisite that it is hard to believe that one of the “unique” elements of this watch is its prototype movement.
This watch will be further customized for the winning bidder because of the desired geographical location that is the base for the sunrise/sunset functionality.
Quick Facts Krayon Anywhere
Case: 39 x 9.5 mm, stainless steel
Movement: manually wound Caliber C030 with 432 components, 86-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; sunset and sunrise times, month, date, 24-hour indication
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 95,000 – 120,000 Swiss francs
Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Hope
Based on the independent maker’s 2020 Classic Origin Opaline, which was launched in a titanium case, the Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Hope is the picture of balance and understatement.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Hope for Only Watch 2021
This timepiece is unique in the use of stainless steel for this case and the green “aquamarine” dial with 18-karat white gold hour markers. That “aquamarine” is the official descriptor as I find the dial to really be light green.
Quick Facts Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Hope
Case: 40 x 10.7 mm, stainless steel
Movement: manually wound Caliber LF116.01 with free-sprung balance, 80-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 29,000 – 39,000 Swiss francs
Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit Only Watch
A shocking announcement came to the fore in 2013: backed up by an elite panel of noted historians in the watch industry (see more on this in History Rebooted: The Chronograph’s Inventor is . . . Louis Moinet!), a virtually unnoticed find at a 2012 auction made it obvious that Nicolas Rieussec (1781-1866) was not the inventor of the chronograph as previously thought. It was Louis Moinet.
Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit for Only Watch 2021
In 2014, Louis Moinet introduced a modern timepiece paying homage to the compteur de tierces, as the historical piece was called. The new Memoris places emphasis on the chronograph function rather than the time-telling displays. The chronograph activated by just one single chronograph pusher, which contains traditional column wheel and clutch components, dominates the skeletonized display that is entirely visible from the dial.
This unique Only Watch edition again makes the chronograph function visible on the dial but uses blue as its base color scheme underneath the visible chronograph assembly. This color combination – along with the yellow dial – is unique for Louis Moinet.
Further reading:
It’s The Little Details That Count: Louis Moinet Memoris 200th Anniversary Edition
Memoris By Louis Moinet: Paying Homage To Historical Chronographic Ingenuity
Discovery, Firsts, And The Louis Moinet Compteur De Tierces
Quick Facts Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit Only Watch
Case: 40.7 x 17.92 mm, titanium
Movement: automatic Caliber LM79, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, column wheel chronograph
Functions: hours, minutes; three-counter chronograph
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 28,000 – 40,000 Swiss francs
Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon Only Watch 2021
This very modern interpretation of Louis Vuitton’s famed Tambour is rather extroverted with its gradient look, which shows through the striped grid on the dial adding a sense of dynamic and warmth and giving the impression you are looking at a beautiful sunset with the vivid orange tones.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon for Only Watch 2021
From a technical point of view, this Louis Vuitton is imposing fitted as it is with Caliber LV 82, which combines a flying tourbillon with a GMT function that is easily adjusted thanks to the pushers on the side of the case.
An original detail is the hour markers on the dial, which are crafted in baguette-cut orange sapphires. The strap is also a work of art, combining rubber with alligator in a sporty casual style.
Further reading:
Louis Vuitton’s Journey To Watch Nirvana (Or Meyrin)
Quick Facts Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon Only Watch 2021
Case: 46 x 13.15 mm, titanium and pink gold with rubber crown
Dial: 22 baguette-cut sapphires (~0.54 ct)
Movement: automatic Caliber LV 82 with one-minute flying tourbillon, 65-hour power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes; second time zone
Limitation: unique piece
Estimate: 80,000 – 100,000 Swiss francs
Ludovic Ballouard Half Time Vinyl 33 Tours Only Watch
Look, ma, no hands! This clever watch with patented jumping hours uses counterrotating disks for the current hour, while retrograde minutes have a titanium tone arm for a one-hour arc across what looks like a vinyl record.
Ludovic Ballouard Half Time Vinyl 33 Tours for Only Watch 2021
The jump hour style, which only reveals the current hour at any time, is a patented invention of independent watchmaker Ludovic Ballouard for his Half Time watches. Not one has looked like vinyl yet!
Quick Facts Ludovic Ballouard Half Time Vinyl 33 Tours Only Watch
Case: 41 x 11 mm, platinum
Movement: automatic Caliber B02 Style, approx. 35-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: jump hours, retrograde minutes
Limitation: unique piece
Estimate: 40,000 – 60,000 Swiss francs
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grande Date Only Watch 2021
Decorated in the corporate colors of Only Watch, the base for this unique piece is Maurice Lacroix’s popular Aikon Master Grande Date.
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grande Date for Only Watch 2021
And as Maurice Lacroix is the official timekeeper of Mahindra Racing, and the two entities share their know-how, this is a rather unique timepiece culminating as a result of the partnership: the carbon fiber of the case of Maurice Lacroix’s Aikon Master Grande Date Only Watch 2021 was once used on a Mahindra Racing car. This unique timepiece also marks the first time Maurice Lacroix presents an example of its Aikon collection in carbon fiber.
Additionally, the successful bidder will be invited to attend a 2022 round of the ABB FIA Formula E World Championship as a guest of Mahindra Racing, where they can look forward to a full VIP hospitality package.
Further reading: Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grande Date: A Serious Player In The Steel Sports Watch Market (And, Yes, It Has A Blue Dial)
Quick Facts Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grand Date Only Watch 2021
Case: 47 x 15 mm, DLC-coated stainless steel and carbon fiber previously used on a Mahindra Racing car
Movement: automatic Caliber ML331, 50-hour power reserve, 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 12,000 – 18,000 Swiss francs
MB&F HM10 Panda Only Watch
Based upon the idea of the HM10 Bulldog of 2020, the Panda now graces our world with its presence. And, boy, is it cute!!!!
The top section of what was previously the bulldog body is now coated in black and white lacquer to mimic a panda’s coloring. To accommodate the lacquer, the top section of the standard titanium case was crafted this time in stainless steel. Other unique features include two black titanium panda ears added to the top of the sapphire crystal dome and a ceramic tail machined from Grade 5 silicon nitride.
MB&F HM10 Panda for Only Watch 2021
Other panda bear features include flexible “legs” that wrap firmly around the wrist and panda teeth that are constantly munching on bamboo shoots to indicate the power reserve (instead of the bulldog’s jaws).
MB&F offers the HM10 Panda together with unique works of art by multidisciplinary designer Lee Yuen-Rapati, who has graciously created a series of illustrations inspired by the HM10 Panda especially for the auction.
Further reading: MB&F HM10 Bulldog: Forget The Dog, Beware Of The Owner (Video)
Quick Facts HM10 Panda Only Watch
Case: 54 x 45 x 24 mm, stainless steel with black and white lacquer and grade 5 titanium
Movement: manual winding in-house Caliber HM10 with flying balance wheel, 2.5 Hz/18,000 vph, 45-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes; power reserve indication (panda teeth)
Limitation: one unique piece
Auction estimate: 100,000 – 150,000 Swiss francs
Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Only Watch 21
In 2021 Montblanc celebrates the 200th anniversary since Nicolas Rieussec first inked a chronograph marking. To celebrate that milestone, Montblanc offers a unique variation of its Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph along with a wooden replica of the historical chronograph from 1821 and an immersive high watchmaking experience at the Montblanc Manufacture in Villeret.
Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph for Only Watch 2021
The yellow gold case is especially attractive in combination with the yellow gold-colored dial decorated with guilloche and of course some subtle orange details in honor of Only Watch’s 2021 corporate color.
Quick Facts Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Only Watch 21
Case: 43 x 15.02 mm, yellow gold
Movement: automatic Caliber MB R200 with column wheel monopusher chronograph, twin spring barrels for 72-hour power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph, second time zone with day/night indication
Limitation: unique piece
Estimate: 30,000 – 45,000 Swiss francs
Moritz Grossman Only Watch Moritz Grossmann
This stainless steel watch features two unique elements for Moritz Grossmann: for one, its dial was crafted by hand using a vintage technique that involves friction rubbing silver so that it plates and protects the dial, at the same time creating an interesting velvety texture. For another the hand-engraved balance cock in this watch is made of 18-karat gold.
Moritz Grossman for Only Watch 2021
As always, the hand-tempered, violet-colored steel hands on this watch have been handcrafted and hand-tempered to this obtain their unique color.
Quick Facts Moritz Grossman Only Watch Moritz Grossmann
Case: 41 x 11.35 mm, stainless steel
Dial: silver-plated by friction
Movement: manually wound Caliber 100.1 with hand-engraved 18-karat gold balance cock, 2.5 Hz/18,000 vph frequency, Grossmann balance, two-thirds plate, untreated German silver, 42-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 20,000 – 35,000 Swiss francs
Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001
Inspired by a desk clock delivered to James Ward Packard in 1923 that is now safeguarded in the Patek Philippe Museum, Patek Philippe has made a unique and complicated desk clock for this edition of Only Watch.
Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001 for Only Watch 2021
Equipped with the new Caliber 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE, the clock whose dial is quite reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s 2019 Only Watch entry features a clean perpetual calendar with an unusual calendar week display. This art deco-style desk clock is housed in a sterling silver cabinet inscribed with “the only one” and featuring decorative vermeil elements and American walnut inlays.
The front panel of the clock opens to reveal a control panel with buttons allowing the owner to choose what the key that fits into the socket below them should be doing: wind the movement or set the calendar.
I may be surprised on November 6, but I really find it hard to believe that a desk clock – no matter how unique it is – can top the 31 million Swiss franc result of the unique Grandmaster Chime Reference 6300A of Only Watch 2019. But stranger things have happened.
Quick Facts Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27001M-001
Case: 164.6 x 125 x 76.3 mm, sterling silver with walnut and vermeil inlay
Movement: manually (key) wound Caliber 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE with 31-day power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; power reserve indication, perpetual calendar with day, date, month, calendar week, leap year, moon phase
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 400,000 – 500,000 Swiss francs
Perrelet Turbine Hope
As the Turbine blades spin on this unique version of Perrelet’s best-known model, the dial underneath reveals a gaggle of positive words in English, including the design’s most important in luminescent material: “HOPE.”
Perrelet Turbine Hope for Only Watch 2021
This design was inspired by paintings made by Italian children at the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic in Italy, and I find it a very fitting choice for this event as well.
Additionally, the case in PVD-coated stainless steel with polycarbonate and carbon fiber is a first for Perrelet.
Quick Facts Perrelet Turbine Hope
Case: 44 x 13.82 mm, PVD-coated stainless steel with polycarbonate and carbon fiber
Movement: automatic Caliber P-331-MH, 42-hour power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, officially C.O.S.C. chronometer and Chronofiable certified
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: unique piece
Estimate: 8,000 – 12,000 Swiss francs
Rebellion RE1 2.0 Chronograph
Rebellion’s watches are nothing if not muscular, and this RE1 2.0 Chronograph certainly is a case in point: bold in stature yet light in weight, this watch’s presence refuses to be ignored.
Rebellion RE1 2.0 Chronograph for Only Watch 2021
With Only Watch 2021’s corporate color as an accent to offset the black, it makes for an interesting watch.
Quick Facts Rebellion RE1 2.0 Chronograph
Case: 46 x 56.7 x 19.60 mm, DLC-coated titanium
Movement: automatic Caliber 2121, 48-hour power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; chronograph
Limitations: unique piece
Auction estimate: 26,000 – 50,000 Swiss francs
Reservoir Kanister Palladium
The unique watch in a 950 palladium case takes its inspiration from the speedometer of the iconic Porsche 356 Speedster of the 1950s. This unique piece has been further personalized with the Only Watch 2021 color codes, which were painted by hand on the dial.
Reservoir Kanister Palladium for Only Watch 2021
This watch comes in a set with a total of four leather straps inspired by car seats from this era.
Quick Facts Reservoir Kanister Palladium
Case: 41.5 x 12.1 mm, 950 palladium
Movement: automatic Caliber RSV-240 with proprietary module (124 components), 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: jump hours, retrograde minutes; power reserve indication
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 20,000 – 30,000 Swiss francs
Richard Mille RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype
Ferrari driver Charles Leclerc, who was famously a protégé of Jean Todt (a close friend of Richard Mille), was slated for the Richard Mille family before he ever had a driver’s license. “Since his early days in karting, I have closely followed Charles’ progress,” says Richard Mille. “Noted for his times and his speedy qualifiers, the driver attracted my attention and enthusiasm, immediately convinced the brand must support his budding talent.”
Richard Mille RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype for Only Watch 2021
Leclerc officially joined the Richard Mille family about a decade ago and the Scuderia Ferrari in 2019. He wears a white RM 67-02, the prototype of which is right here waiting for the highest bidder, making its acquisition a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.
Additionally, the winning bidder of this RM 67-02 will receive two passes for the next Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix. As VIP Guests of Scuderia Ferrari, they will have the opportunity to meet Charles Leclerc and attend the race from the heart of the Scuderia paddock.
Quick Facts RM 67-02 Charles Leclerc Prototype
Case: 38.7 x 7.8 mm, red and white Quartz TPT
Movement: automatic Caliber CRMA7 with plates and bridges in Grade 5 titanium, 50-hour power reserve, variable geometry rotor in TPT carbon and white gold, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, variable inertia balance
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 270,000 – 330,000 Swiss francs
Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition Only Watch
Romain Gauthier’s brand-new caliber Continuum, which is in part inspired by the historical finger bridge, is housed in a titanium case here. And, uniquely, this variation of the Continuum also contains a movement in titanium.
Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition for Only Watch 2021
And although we do not as yet know what the rest of the line will look like, we are assured this is a unique piece exhibiting gradients of the corporate color of the 2021 edition of Only Watch on the dial.
Quick Facts Romain Gauthier Continuum Titanium Edition Only Watch
Case: 41 x 9.55 mm, titanium
Dial: sandblasted natural titanium
Movement: manually wound Continuum caliber, 60-hour power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, components in steel, titanium, and German silver
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 40,000 – 70,000 Swiss francs
Speake-Marin One&Two Dual Time Only Watch The Sun
Modern and colorful, this GMT timepiece’s color scheme is not only unique, but fits the corporate color scheme of the Only Watch 2021.
Speake-Marin One&Two Dual Time The Sun for Only Watch 2021
Quick Facts Speake-Marin One&Two Dual Time Only Watch The Sun
Case: 42 mm, DLC-coated titanium
Movement: automatic Caliber SMA02, 52-hour power reserve, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; retrograde date, second time zone
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 30,000 – 40,000 Swiss francs
TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco
For its donation to Only Watch 2021, TAG Heuer revives the spirit of the ultra-rare Monaco “Dark Lord” from the 1970s, which was produced only in small quantities.
TAG Heuer Carbon Monaco for Only Watch 2021
The TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco is housed in a one-off, carbon-cased version of the square chronograph with an extra-large sapphire crystal case back and is powered by a highly finished movement using techniques including anglage, black polishing, circular graining, straight graining, perlage, snailing, sandblasting, chevron engraving, and sunburst finishing.
Quick Facts TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco
Case: 39 x 39 x 15.56 mm, forged carbon
Movement: automatic Caliber Heuer 02 with unique hand-finished carbon hairspring, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, power reserve 80 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, chronograph
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 50,000 – 100,000 Swiss francs
Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque
Trilobe is a newer brand founded by the French poetic aesthete Gautier Massonneau with the help of the mechanical poetry of watchmaker par excellence Jean-François Mojon of Chronode.
Front and back of the Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque clock for Only Watch 2021
The Les Matinaux model was specifically inspired by the poetry of René Char as collected in a tome called Les Matinaux, in which he expresses the very human emotions of hope, courage, warmth, and wisdom. Using a patented system of three disks (hence the “tri”) on the dial to tell the time, this watch’s appearance is like that of few others in the history of timekeeping.
And now comes a clock based on the Matinaux movement that was co-designed by French conceptual artist Daniel Buren, the master of vertical striping. The contrast between the two styles and sides of this clock is what helps it stand out, that and the superb finishing of the movement components. The clock is a work of art from both sides.
Further reading: Trilobe Nuit Fantastique & Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque Clock: Take Your Time Telling Time
Quick Facts Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque
Case: 300 x 300 x 51.5 mm, aluminum
Movement: manual winding D-Centric caliber, 8-day power reserve, 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 35,000 – 40,000 Swiss francs
Tudor Black Bay GMT One
Tudor never seems to do what you think it’s going to, and here the aged stainless steel case and bracelet are a case in point, making for a shabby chic sort of look. This is enhanced by a cool rotor in a highly unusual design.
Tudor Black Bay GMT One for Only Watch 2021
This watch has been a multiple winner at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in various iterations over the years. Not only that, but the Black Bay Ceramic One for Only Watch 2019, which had a similar official estimate as this watch, actually ended up achieving a result of CHF 350,000, the fifth highest performer at that auction.
How’s it going to go this time? Anyone’s guess, I’d imagine.
Quick Facts Tudor Black Bay GMT One
Case: 41 x 14.6 mm, aged stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber MT5652-1U, officially C.O.S.C. certified chronometer and METAS Master Chronometer certified, 70-hour power reserve, variable inertia balance, silicon balance spring, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking seconds
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 4,000 – 8,000 Swiss francs
Ulysse Nardin UFO
This version is mechanically the same as the regular limited-edition UFO, but its anodized and painted components are a rich orange, the chosen corporate color palette by the Only Watch organizers (the biennial auction has a different corporate color every occurrence).
Ulysse Nardin UFO Clock for Only Watch 2021
The deep blue becoming a bright orange really changes the feel of the UFO, making it seem a bit more sci-fi than classic and nautical (it this clock could ever have been called that). In addition to the color change, the small plaque that previously held the edition number now reads ONLY WATCH – in case the color changes weren’t enough to remind you this is a one-off creation.
Further reading: Ulysse Nardin UFO Clock: Not Your Typical UFO Sighting, But It Quite Literally ROCKS!
Quick Facts Ulysse Nardin UFO Table Clock Only Watch 2021 Edition
Case: 264 x 159 mm, aluminum and blown glass
Movement: manually wound Caliber UN-902, 365-day power reserve, 3,600 vph/.5 Hz, 49 mm balance wheel, six spring barrels
Functions: hours, minutes, deadbeat second in three time zones, power reserve indication
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 60,000 – 80,000 Swiss francs
Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa
Based on this independent brand’s very first watch presented 24 years ago, the Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa is encased in a mixed-genre approach including anodized aluminum on the front and platinum on the back. The back is additionally decorated with a hand-applied glittering blue lacquer representing the Gaïa Award for Entrepreneurship, which the founding partners received in 2020.
Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa for Only Watch 2021
“We have chosen to name this model Gaïa,” Urwerk co-founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei explained in a press release. “We recently had the immense honor of receiving the Gaïa Prize for Entrepreneurship from our peers. This award recognizes a journey from oblivion to the limelight, along with tenacity, conviction and pugnacity that have repeatedly been put to the test. This model reflects this fierce determination that blazes new trails. We dedicate this symbol of hope to all those who struggle to make things happen.”
Further reading: 2020 Prix Gaïa Awards: Urwerk Founders Felix Baumgartner And Martin Frei, Sundial Maker Denis Savoie, And Independent Watchmaker Antoine Preziuso Honored
Quick Facts Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa
Case: 38 x 12 mm, anodized aluminum and platinum
Movement: automatic caliber developed and assembled by Felix Baumgartner, 42-hour power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes
Limitations: unique piece
Auction estimate: 32,000 – 75,000 Swiss francs
Zenith x Felipe Pantone Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone
Zenith’s El Primero Caliber 9020 is very visible through this large, transparent sapphire crystal case, but especially because it is finished with “Rainbow” PVD coating on the bridges. Black laser engraving on the main plate and a special oscillating weight complete the ultra-cool look of this unique watch.
Zenith x Felipe Pantone Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone for Only Watch 2021
The hour markers are coated with a “Rainbow” varnish while the hands are “Rainbow” PVD coated. The watch will be delivered in a special Felipe Pantone watch box that is signed by the artist. The timepiece comes with a Pantone artwork measuring 170 x 120 mm.
Further reading: Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon: Partnering For Perfection (Plus Video)
Quick Facts Zenith x Felipe Pantone Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone
Case: 46 x 14.5 mm, sapphire crystal
Movement: automatic Caliber El Primero 9020 with two independent tourbillons, one revolving at 5 Hz and one at 50 Hz, 5 Hz/36,000 vph and 50 Hz/360,000 vph frequencies, 50-hour and 50-minute power reserves, officially certified as a chronometer by Timelab
Functions: hours, minutes; chronograph showing seconds and minutes to 1/100th of a second; chronograph power reserve
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 180,000 – 220,000 Swiss francs
Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II Only Watch
Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi donated to the Only Watch cause for the first time in 2019 with a variation on his Chronomètre Contemporain, winner of the Men’s category at the 2018 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II Only Watch
That watch ended up being the breakout superstar of the 2019 Only Watch auction in a unique variation with the fourth highest bid of the auction.
Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II Only Watch on the wrist
The present watch marks the very first example of Akrivia’s follow-up model, the Chronomètre Contemporain II, which features an entirely new caliber that is equally as focused on chronometric precision as the first model was.
For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com/akrivia
Quick Facts Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II Only Watch
Case: 38 x 9.75 mm, platinum
Dial: layered high-fire flinqué enamel
Limitation: unique piece
Auction estimate: 70,000-100,000 Swiss francs
For more information, please visit www.onlywatch.com.
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Wow, lots of makers really , really keyed in on the orange thing ! I love it !
So that’s the Gauthier, then. Quite like it, and the estimate augurs well for the price of standard models not being daft.
What a superb collection of designs, materials and builds. I especially like the Blancpain FF with the Halloween colors!! Is remote bidding a possibility with Only Watch? Thanks
Never seen so many amazing watches all on one page, from the classic to the outrageous! Good to see affordable brands like Baltic and Maurice Lacroix up there with the big boys.