Does Hand Finishing Matter? A Collector’s View Of Movement Decoration – Reprise

Many of you are likely to have come across at least a few heated discussions of “finishing,” a topic that seems to fascinate, and divide, watch enthusiasts. Like many people, GaryG’s starting point for serious watches was with a well-priced brand long known for its expertise in developing movements, justly viewed as offering good value for money – but not necessarily for the refinement of its movement finishing, at least on its less expensive pieces. Read on to discover what he has learned since then.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Ref. 79230B on fabric strap

5 Tool Watches I’d Buy If I Didn’t Want to Spring For A Rolex Submariner – Reprise

If John Keil was to recommend a brand-new functional diver’s watch to a friend who was looking to spend within a certain price range, these would be his suggestions. Or, more specifically, here is what he would purchase himself in a variety of price categories.

Heavy Metal: Great (And Not So Great) Watch Bracelets

If cases get too little attention from watch collectors, GaryG feels that the straps and bracelets that turn a timepiece into a wristwatch seem to get even less. And of late, especially with the controversy surrounding the introduction of the “integrated” bracelet of A. Lange & Söhne’s new Odysseus, he has been pondering metal watch bracelets and what makes them so special.

Vintage Jaeger "Panda dial 4 ATM"

The Number Of Jewels In A Watch Movement Indicates Value, Or Does It It? A Myth Debunked – Reprise

Does anyone really care how many jewels their watch has? Watchmaker Ashton Tracy thinks that you’d be surprised how many people do as they’ve been duped by a vintage practice of announcing the amount of movement jewels on watch dials. What is the real story here?

Book Review: ‘Retro Watches’ By Josh Sims And Mitch Greenblatt

Very, very rarely does Elizabeth Doerr see a watch book where everything fits together in the way a book should: engaging, well-written text; very obviously carefully copyedited; great paper quality; good, clear, pleasing-to-the-eye design; super photography, and an engaging subject matter. And she’s happy to report it does here. ‘Retro Watches’ by Josh Sims and Mitch Greenblatt is a must-read for those interested in affordable, design-focused watches of a quirky bygone era.

No longer a prototype, the production version of Naissance d’Une Montre, Le Garde Temps on display at SIHH 2016

The Schmidt List: Signature Movement Screws – Reprise

The components of a mechanical watch movement are little more than a series of springs and wheels held together by plates and/or bridges. No matter the configuration, complication or finish, the ensemble is secured by the humble movement screw. So it’s a pleasant surprise that several watchmakers have boldly ventured beyond the thread and the slot to reimagine the movement screw as Ryan Schmidt notes.

The “big three” recent additions to the author’s collection

Selling Watches To Buy Watches: One Collector’s Story – Reprise

Wouldn’t it be splendid to have everything your heart desired? Well, it’s a nice fantasy but it’s not going to happen for GaryG. And besides, he’s not so sure that the experience of “selling to buy” isn’t actually a significant part, albeit a bittersweet one, of the collecting experience. Find out why here.

Panerai with Rolex movement at auction

Attending An Auction With The Intent To Buy – And What Happened Next – Reprise

Vintage watches are becoming more and more of a subject in our little world of ticks and tocks. So Elizabeth Doerr set out for Frankfurt very early one Saturday morning to meet up with an old acquaintance, vintage watch dealer Ron Geweniger, to attend the Dr. Crott auction and learn a bit of what goes on behind the bidding.

Solid performer: Patek Philippe Reference 3939 Tourbillon Minute Repeater

Keep Calm And Continue Collecting: Advice For An Up And Down Watch Market – Reprise

Now, it seems fairly evident that we are on the down slope of either a cyclical correction in prices or, if one takes a less optimistic view, a permanent loss of watch value as the mechanical timepiece industry faces a variety of challenges and potential disruptions. So what’s a collector to do? And what lessons can we draw, both from watch auction results and the history of other luxury categories, to guide us?

Little big watch: the author’s rare pink gold Patek Philippe Reference 1526

How I Bid: One Collector’s Approach To Buying At Watch Auctions – Reprise

Like many collectors, GaryG has bought and sold a number of watches at auction over the years. Being a systematic type of guy, Gary has taken the time to analyze his philosophy of auction bidding. Here he shares some of the tactics he uses with the hope that some may be useful to you in your own bidding.